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Monthly Archives: July 2016

How to Make Organic Compost?

Home-made garden compost contains heaps of supplements that plants love -, for example, nitrogen and carbon. When you add it to your garden soil it will enhance it and improve it notwithstanding to grow plants.

Treating the soil your kitchen and garden waste will give you an earth benevolent wellspring of natural matter – and it’s free! It will take around 6 months to create manure that is exquisite and brittle and prepared for planting your blooms, leafy foods.

A compost bin or old dustbin or similar with holes in the bottom and garden &/or kitchen plant waste. The worms and micro-organisms needed to break it down into compost will find you!

# You’ll need a sunny corner of your garden to put your bin (or you can build your own from recycled timber – look on the internet for ideas). It needs to be placed on the soil, as you want worms and other micro-organisms to come up through the soil to help, and for any liquid to drain away. And it will need a cover to keep the warmth in and the rain out.

# This is the most important part. You’ll need to keep adding equal amounts of nitrogen-rich green waste (grass clippings, green leaves, weeds, vegetable kitchen waste) and carbon-rich woody waste (prunings, wood chippings, torn-up paper, cardboard, straw or dead leaves). For every wheelbarrow load or bucketful of cut grass, you should mix in the same volume of sawdust, shredded cardboard or other woody waste. Avoid meat, fat and cooked food otherwise you’ll just attract foxes, rats and other vermin; also worms don’t really like an excess of citrus remains.

Any large pieces of material, should be cut into smaller pieces or even shredded; the smaller the pieces, the quicker they will rot down.

# Composting is a biochemical process whereby organic matter is decomposed by naturally-occurring micro-organisms. Keep the compost heap moist, warm (wrap with a piece of old carpet in winter) and aerated as these are the conditions that worms and micro-organisms love. Turn your heap occasionally with a garden fork to let the air in, making sure that you mix all the outside ingredients to the inside.

# When the mixture is brown and crumbly and smells a bit like a damp wood, then you’re ready to use in the garden!

Know These Hanging Baskets Guide

Hanging crate are extraordinary for little spaces and a splendid approach to add shading to generally boring dividers and wall. They are additionally spectacular for lighting up porches and around entryways.

They are likewise a definitive compartment for developing trailing assortments of intriguing plants whether they are blossoms, vegetables or notwithstanding fascinating foliage.

# Planting

  • Line the basket with fresh moss or a special liner made from cardboard, fibre or foam.
  • Place a saucer in the bottom of the basket to stop water draining straight through.
  • Half fill the basket with a good quality potting compost, such as Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Enriched Compost Pots & Baskets, specifically designed for containers.
  • Slip trailing plants through holes made in the side of the liner and cover the roots with more compost.
  • Plant up the top of the basket with upright bushy plants, making sure you have plenty of trailing ones around the edge too.
  • If you make the basket look full at planting time it will produce a much more colourful, dramatic display.

# Feeding

Good quality composts such as moisture controlling compost contain slow-release plant foods that will feed your plants for up to 6 months. Most other composts will run out of steam early and weekly feeding will be necessary if your plants are to flourish throughout the summer and autumn.

To feed just once a season push continuous release plant food tablets into the compost to feed your plants for the next 6 months. Use four in a standard 30cm (12in) basket, five in a 35cm (14in) and six in anything larger. If you prefer to feed your plants regularly and want fantastic results use soluble plant food or liquid concentrate. Regular feeding will reward you with big, beautiful baskets full of colour for months on end.

# Plants for hanging baskets

Flowers: Fuchsia, Petunia, Verbena, Geranium (Pelargonium), Impatiens, Lobelia, Tuberous Begonia, Bidens.

Foliage: Coleus, Cineraria, Felicia, Helichrysum, Lamium, Nepeta, Sage.

Vegetables and other edibles: Tomatoes (Tumbler), Strawberry, Chive, Thyme, Marjoram.

Pruning Wisteria, Here Its Tips

Wisteria, what an entrancing wonder. Exquisite pendulous sprouts trembling in the breeze, floating a powerful scent as you go underneath a course of brilliant green takes off. Then again a woody mass of foliage as firmly hitched as a bundle of fleece after a little cat has been playing with it. To guarantee that your Wisteria is a bounteous blossomer you should ace the specialty of standard pruning.

# When to Prune Wisteria

Wisteria needs to be pruned twice a year to avoid a mass of woody vine and tonnes of foliage. Twice yearly pruning will encourage maximum flowering and improve the overall health of your Wisteria. Below are the best times for pruning your Wisteria to take place?

Winter Pruning

The first pruning session of the year should be done in late Winter. February is the ideal time as the leaves are absent, the plant is deciduous and lying dormant. The aim is to prepare the vine for the growing season to come and ensure that any tangled stems are sorted and tidied before the leaf buds break open. The February Wisteria pruning also gives the opportunity for any support maintenance to be done to the arch, pergola, wall or any other support mechanism around which the Wisteria has been trained. Far easier to repair broken fence panels without the weight of leaves, than in the middle summer when the mass of flowers and leaves mean that you battle to hold the vine in place.

Mid Summer Pruning

The second pruning should occur in Mid Summer, sometime between July and August is the ideal time as this is the period immediately following the flowering season. The plant has expended it’s early energy and is ready to be refreshed and revived for new growth. Summer Wisteria pruning allows you to control its size and gives greater opportunity for training the Wisteria, to follow the path best suited to your garden, whether that is over a pergola or scrambling up a wall and delicately framing, rather than obscuring, the windows.

# How to Prune Wisteria

Wisteria is a hardy vine and will, generally, be forgiving if a spot of light pruning turns into a hard cut back. However here is our guide to how to prune your Wisteria.

February Pruning

As February is the time you will be able to see all the stems of your Wisteria vine, now is the time to trace back to the main stem and sort out the shape of your plant.

Pruning Young Wisteria Plants

If your Wisteria has only had one or two summers of growth, February gives you the chance to create a strong framework in the plant. Cut back the main stem to a height of approximately 75cm and then untangle the side branches, before cutting back by about a third. Train the Wisteria to grow where you want it to, by tying into a supportive structure and removing any unwanted growth.

Pruning Mature Wisteria Plants

If your Wisteria is a more mature plant, February pruning keeps its size in check. Cut back new growth and main branches to just two or three buds to keep the plant neat, tidy and ready for the forthcoming growing period. Hard pruning may be required if there are dead stems to deal with, or particularly woody areas of the vine causing gaps in the foliage and flowering. In this case cut back to the first healthy stem you come to.

# Summer Pruning

When flowering has ceased, this is the time to untangle and reduce the amount of new growth. Mid Summer pruning controls the Wisteria and creates a strong plant that may even flower for a second time in the early Autumn.

Start at ground level and remove any unwanted growth at the base of the vine. This will give strength to the main stem and concentrate the plants energies into its core. Whippy side shoots should then be cut back to no more than 5 buds. This will control the size of your Wisteria and prevent it from getting out of hand and tangled.

If a second flush of blooms appears, you will need to prune the Wisteria again when they finish to retain control of the vine’s growth.